A harmonious Champagne, offering a refined mousse, with an enticing skein of fragrant anise, cardamom and graphite lacing the warm golden apple, crunchy white peach and salted Marcona almond flavors. This shows lovely balance, integrating a spine of vivid tangerine peel acidity and a mineral-laced finish. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier. Disgorged March 2024. Drink now.

The NV Brut Cuvée Ste.-Anne is, as always, a terrific introduction to Alexandre Chartogne's wines. Equal parts Pinot and Chardonnay, the Ste.-Anne offers lovely textural breadth and nuance. Almonds, honey, mint and dried pears open up nicely in the glass. Think of the Ste.-Anne like a village-level Burgundy from a top grower. Best of all, the Ste.-Anne is a terrific value in fine, artisan Champagne. The current release is equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir based on 2012, with 20% each 2011 an 2010 reserve wines. Drink this forward, supple Champagne over the next few years. Dosage is 4 grams/liter.

Dark, rich and sensuous, this is a ripe Champagne, boasting pear and apricot flavors. Although the aftertaste appears dry, the richness gives it a very sumptuous mouthfeel, leaving a long, full aftertaste.